Discover Japan during Autumn – A complete guide to Koyo

There is no word in English that briefly or remotely describes the phenomenon of ‘Koyo’. There are words like Fall, Autumn , Fall colours that all point towards this but nothing quite as beautiful as what Koyo means in Japanese. 

While in translation it literally means Red leaf but actually represents much more in the Japanese culture – The experience of witnessing the whole phenomenon of autumnal colour change just like the complete life cycle of a leaf 🍂 

It’s deep , it’s actually more of a feeling an emotion , a ritual that forms an essential part of the Japanese culture. It was exhilarating to witness not just the magnificent beauty of nature but see how Japanese people take time out to immerse in nature and appreciate different seasons. I was already in love with Japan and Koyo was just the icing on the cake. 

When you hear of Japan you hear about the world famous Cherry Blossom’s and Hanami in spring, but Koyo and Momijigari time is still not quite as popular amongst Tourists.

As a september born ,in the desert state of Rajasthan, I had personally never experienced a full blown Autumn 🍂 , or super cozy days of the fall weather except for a few times in the Himalayan region of Kashmir where Autumn is way different due to the higher elevations. 

Every time I saw vivid yellows, oranges, ochre , ombres and almost garnet images online I assumed they were all over saturated crazy edits. But this changed, the moment I step foot in Japan !

I was left gobsmacked with my eyes and mouth both wide open. Our trip came together quite last minute when we spotted a great flight deal, and we were incredibly fortunate to experience Koyo at its peak during the first week of December 2023. My brother, who lived in Japan for few years, provided invaluable insider tips that made our last-minute planning much easier.

Originally, we had planned to visit my family in Japan in 2020, but that trip was canceled due to the COVID outbreak. Ever since then, I’ve been eager , and although this trip was short, it only fuelled my desire for more. I’m already thinking about planning a second visit soon to witness Sakura season !

So here’s the breakdown of our one week itinerary , some tips and suggestions ( A week is really not enough for this country, Highly recommend a bare minimum 10 days to 2 weeks if time permits.) but if like us that’s all you can manage due to work commitments it’s still decent enough to experience some highlights of this gorgeous country. Make the best of what you can than procrastinate is something I wholeheartedly believe in. Life is short that ways and there is so much to see and experience. So book that flight now friends.

Since all we had was a week we limited ourselves to some popular cities of South of Japan primarily because our dates were matching the Koyo and Momijigari calendar predictions by the Japan metrology department. This is the most important thing to consider whether you choose to witness Japan during Koyo or during their world famous Sakura season. Predictions & a flexible schedule can get you to the best sights.

Koyo Season in Japan begins from September in the northern part of the country progressing towards the South in the later months lasting untill early December in some parts. So choose cities and places basis the time of your Travel and the official Koyo predictions for that area/region. Linking a few helpful sights below that you should definitely look up and bookmark.

• www.Japan-Guide.com – For trip planning and recommended Koyo viewing spots and calendar updates
• www.japan.travel.com – For choosing the time of your trip and prefectures according to weather predictions
• www.koyo.walkerplus.com – For real time updates on the Leaf colours and the degree of colour change

Visa for Indian Nationals – The Visa is facilitated by the VFS centers and costs Rs 1300 per person (as of 2024). Its a straightforward quick process , we got ours all in a week.

Currency – The Japanese Yen. Surprisingly enough this hi tech nation is still pretty much cash based but cards are accepted at all major sights like Hotels/Restaurants/Big Shops. Keep cash & change handy though for shrine visits, hole in wall eatery’s, Vending Machines , Luggage storage , Coffee on the go etc. Forex/Credit cards are accepted at major retailers and bigger joints.

Food & Drinks – Japan is a food lovers paradise. Even if you are a Vegan or a Vegetarian like me or like my husband who starts looking out for Indian Curries after a couple of days of overseas travel. Japan has a delectable local and international cuisine scene. Goes without saying even as a teetotaller ” Sake at a Japanese bar in a narrow by-lane , Sushi on a conveyor belt , Piping hot Ramen in the chilly December weather and sipping some Matcha Tea “ is an absolute must.

*My personal favourite here though has to be the discovery of Japanese plum wine that we tried at a local bar in Kyoto. I bought my first ever liquor bottle in life and that says a lot I guess. It was slightly sweetish and very refreshing.

Local Food’s to try ( Vegetarian & Vegan versions available easily)

The definition of Vegetarian differs world over and it could be tricky to pick street food that caters to all Vegetarians or Vegans in Japan. Some people consider egg and fish as vegetarian here. So the best way is to specify clearly what you don’t eat. Like No Meat, No Fish , No Egg. ” Begetarian with a B ” is how Japanese understand and refer to it, so specify your food restrictions exactly to them and you should be good to go. There are aplenty Vegan joints too if you are very picky.

• Sushi
• Mochi
• Onigiri -(Rice & Preserved Plum wrapped in Seaweed)
• Matcha Tea – Experience A Traditional tea ceremony in Kyoto
• Lots of Gyoza ( load up on them)
• Vegetable tempura
• Dango Sticks
• Ramen
• Bento Box on train journey’s
• Miso Soup
• Soba Noodles 🍜 
• Udon Noodles
• Fermented Cucumbers in Kyoto
• Fermented Plums & other fruits specially Persimmon (Kaki) 

• Onisuktka Sneakers & Made in Nippon Shoes 
• Electronics , Camera’s and Apple products if you fancy are much cheaper.
• Visit the largest Uniqlo for the sheer size and stock up on basics , a variety of heat tech clothing that I got for winters.
• Japanese Pottery – Green Tea/Matcha bowls and a traditional Japanese kettle set.
• Japanese Art , Silk Scarves and Kimono’s for the Fashionista
• Matcha Tea
• Kitkat chocolates that are only available in Japan – Unbelievable flavours and colours
• Wasabi Snacks for the ones you Hate may be your Boss 😂 

Local Transportation 

Between Major Cities

Japan is very well connected via their world famous The Shinkansen Bullet Trains that run across major cities and are fast and efficient. Believe it or not but, they apologise for a 2 second train delay even. Albeit untill June 2023 the Japanese Bullet train pass for Tourists was cost efficient but with the recent price increase it may not be the best option anymore unless you are covering a lot of cities on your trip. Best is to compare individual tickets/rides for your destinations and compare the cost of 7/15/21 day pass to decide which works out cheaper and is more convenient. Check the different Rail passes here to compare JR Pass

Within Cities 

The metro is the most efficient, easy and budget friendly. And so are the Buses. One can also use the SUICA card ( Only available at the Airports) for easy tap and pay local transport tickets, if you do not wish to buy individual tickets each time.

Taxis- JUST STAY AWAY ! Taxis in Japan can be notoriously expensive and cost you even more that your flight ticket to Japan. We had to get one early morning to the airport and it nearly cost INR 1000 /USD 10 dollars per kilometre and raised my heartbeats like a ticking bomb. Stick to public transport good people and thank me.

Itinerary 

Day 1-3 Tokyo

Tokyo to me is the perfect example of what modern cities today should be ‘ Best of both worlds’ . One moment, you feel as if you’re in 2050, surrounded by towering skyscrapers and cutting-edge technology, and the next, you find yourself in a tranquil park or beside a century-old shrine steeped in rich history and culture. A vibrant blend of tradition, innovation and simplicity, a buzzing city that offers an exhilarating and diverse travel experience is how I can describe Japan’s Capital.

Tokyo Day 1 : Historic & Iconic

Start early with a visit to the historic Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa, the later you go the more crowds you will have to brave, make sure you explore the streets and market stalls leading to it on Nakamese Street where you can find adorable gifts and souvenirs to take back home. From here I would suggest moving towards either the Tokyo Tower or the Tokyo Imperial Palace and gardens which is much quieter and has an avenue of Ginkgo Trees/Japanese Maple on full display during the Koyo season, we chose the latter quite obviously. Later in the evening explore the bustling streets of Shibuya and Shinjuku, where you can enjoy shopping and nightlife.

Animal lovers can get a picture clicked with Hachiko – the famous Akita Dog statue located just outside the Shibuya Train Station (There is a Richard Gere movie if you haven’t watched based on a true story of this wonderful loyal pet ). Cross the famous Shibuya Crossing for the thrill of it, its the world’s busiest pedestrian intersection, and then delve into the lively shopping scene of the area.

If you rather prefer climbing up to see the crossing from an aerial view, there are a few vantage points around which we didn’t bother to because we ain’t much into city life. Cap off your day with a dinner at a local izakaya (Japanese pub) to experience Tokyo’s dynamic culinary scene and call it a day.

Tokyo Day 2: Modern Marvels and Cultural Riches

Begin your day at the Meiji Shrine (my absolute favourite), nestled in a serene forested area, offering a tranquil escape from the city’s hustle it was really hard to believe we were in one of the most densely populated capital cities and trust me when I say this the morning sun gleaming in between the tall trees and all the Autumn foliage was a balm to my soul. We were lucky to even witness a wedding ceremony here and the making of traditional japanese Mochi which probably is the best arm workout in the world.

Next, either make your way in the upscale district of Ginza, known for its luxury shopping and elegant department stores, the largest Uniqlo that scales up 9 floors is situated here or keep this for the evening time and visit Teamlab Planet Borderless for an immersive art experience. This was our very first such digital art immersive experience and it was worth every penny. We went with low expectations but were pleasantly surprised with all the details and use of modern technology. My favourite being the Water Pond with Koi fish. The water was warm and my tired and swollen feet didn’t want to leave. If you fancy a Ramen then Vegan Ramen is just near the ticketing counters.

Pro Tip – Team labs can be sold out months in advance specially around weekends and in tourist season. Best is to book beforehand online to save on the hassle. Dress appropriately in skirt/shorts or something loose that can easily be rolled up to your knees for today , if you don’t wish to change into the clothing gear that Team labs provides.

Tokyo Day 3: Take it Slow

On the final day, explore the peaceful Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden , a beautiful oasis perfect for a leisurely stroll and your Koyo fix. I know , this itinerary has a lot of gardens and parks over popular monuments like Tokyo Tower or Disneyland but Autumn was at its Peak when we visited and the prime reason for timing our trip around Nov-Dec was to experience Koyo & Momiji (Autumn) in all its splendour. But again to find the best spots for viewing these Trees could differ every year and from place to place , best is to to track the official websites to get a more accurate idea around your dates and keep your plans flexible we suggest. If you are travelling with kids then rather visit Disney land , Universal Studio’s or Ghibli Museum over Parks.

Wrap up your Tokyo adventure with a visit to Roppongi Hills for shopping, dining, and a stunning view of the city skyline from the observation deck specially during December when they have Christmas lightings everywhere.

Day 4 Kawaguchiko & Mt Fuji

Most people make this a day trip from Tokyo but we would highly recommend a day or two here right at the end of your trip if possible. We made it in the middle since we were celebrating our anniversary and to time the Koyo viewing basis the calendar predictions.

Kawaguchiko, is a charming town with breathtaking views of Mt. Fuji. We were very lucky to see Mt Fuji the moment we arrived and for the entire time we were here right from our Hotel room and its private onsen. This is why I recommend this to be the last place on your trip. Because nothing better then ending a trip by soaking into a traditional japanese onsen on your last day when its -1 degree outside. And if you are brave enough give public onsens a try, I wasn’t so we chose a private one with Mt fuji giving me company from the window.

What is a Onsen – An onsen is a natural hot spring bath that is heated geothermally by the volcanic activity of the land. The catch here is one has to enter these only in your birthday suit strictly. I was too shy and as a little anniversary splurge we chose a private one inside our Hotel. But I am going to be daring enough someday to join a public onsen in Japan to shed all my inhibitions.

There are various view points in Kawaguchiko for Mt Fuji and for Autumn leaves viewing. When we reached Koyo was almost over with its tail end near and just a few trees lurking in here and there. But these are some places that one can explore – A leisurely walk around Kawaguchi Lake, explore the Fuji Five Lakes region for panoramic views and photo opportunities , or take the Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway for an aerial perspective of the majestic mountain. Our favourite being the early morning climb to ‘The Chureito Pagoda’ for a distant view of Mt fuji between the Maple Trees. The Chureito Pagoda is equally amazing in cherry blossom season too and this was my personal favourite vantage point specially if you can make it there in the wee morning hours like us before crowds arrive. Next head to the famous Momiji Tunnel, Lake Kawaguchi Maple Corridor if you visit during peak autumn which is generally around mid November here. During its peak the maple corridor looks straight out of a fairytale. Please google !

Conclude your day with a relaxing soak at a local onsen public or private, soaking in the beauty of Mt. Fuji’s grandeur.

If you have more time on hand add a couple of days to visit Hakone which is just about an hour from here.

Day 5-7 Kyoto : Japan’s cultural capital

Kyoto, Japan’s ancient capital, a city that’s steeped in history and tradition, renowned for its stunning shrines, serene gardens, and rich cultural heritage. Situated on the island of Honshu, Kyoto is nestled between lush mountains and is known for its well-preserved architectural and cultural landmarks.

Kyoto Day 5 : Classic & Scenic

Begin your Kyoto exploration early with a morning visit to Arashiyama, where you can walk through the enchanting Bamboo Grove that are an instagram sensation and visit the nearby Tenryu-ji Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It gets extremely crowded by 10 am when most Tourists arrive here , so make it by 8 in the morning for a tranquil and peaceful experience. Be sure to take a stroll along the picturesque Togetsukyo Bridge and walk alongside Katsura River to climb up the Mountain Trail towards the small shrine of Daihikaku Senkoji for a quieter side to Arashiyama minus the school students and hoards of overwhelming insta frenzy tourists.

Touted as “the best view in Kyoto”, Senkō-ji is a Zen temple on Arashiyama’s mountainside that does indeed offer a commanding view of the city.  The temple is located halfway up a mountain about thirty/forty minutes away on foot from the Togetsukyō Bridge, require’s a bit of hiking up winding stone steps.  Despite its somewhat inconvenient location, the site is well worth a visit if you seek nature and a look at the surrounding mountains , the winding katsura river below is picturesque, one could take a peaceful boat ride on it too (This is was one of our favourite spots in all of Kyoto and the scenery during autumn was absolutely unbelievable) . If you follow Buddhist principles and would like to meditate then this is the place. The view of the forest in flames of red, orange and yellow from here was spectacular , we easily spent close to 2-3 hours here just to soak in the beauty of its surroundings. Later, break in for lunch and enjoy a hot bowl of Soba noodles and some Gyoza at a local restaurant in Arashiyama.

Next head to Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion, renowned for its stunning gold-leaf façade reflecting in the surrounding pond. Wrap up your day at Gion district, Kyoto’s historic Geisha district which looks all the more pretty in the fading evening light, here you might catch a glimpse of a traditional geisha even. Explore Yasaka Pagoda and Gion’s streets in the evening light when most tourists have left. Post an early dinner , if you still have energy left we suggest on exploring atleast one of the shrines during the nightt ime to witness night illumination. We explored Kodai-ji temple post dinner and it was a lovely experience, in fact I wanted to come back and see it the next morning too but fell short on time. Kyoto has a lot to see and explore and one could easily spend a week even, so this itinerary tries to maximise your 3 days and could be slightly hectic even.

Kyoto Day 6 : Spiritual & Cultural

Start your day with the famous Kiyomizu-dera Temple today , offering panoramic views of Kyoto and soaking in the splendour of Maple trees, if you can manage the crowds its considered especially enchanting at sunset too. (The complex is huge and extremely popular so brave the crowds here) Afterward, head to Tofuku-ji Temple, known for its beautiful Zen gardens and stunning seasonal foliage. Enjoy a traditional Kyoto-style lunch before exploring the Philosopher’s Path, a scenic walkway lined with Maple Trees and quaint teahouses. At the end of the path, visit Nanzen-ji and Eikando Zenrinji Temple (my absolute favourite), a large complex with beautiful gardens and impressive architecture , it was at its peak foliage during sunset hours when we visited. End the day with a visit to Fushimi Inari Shrine , famous for its thousands of vibrant red torii gates that create a mesmerising rising path up the mountain.

Pro Tip – Visit Fushimi Inari Shrine (the famous Tori gates) later in the evening to maximize your time, its one of the few places open past sunset till night whereas the others close down by 5.30-6 pm in winters.

Kyoto Day 7 : History & Food

Begin your day with a visit to Nijo Castle, a stunning example of traditional Japanese architecture and a UNESCO World Heritage site. In the afternoon explore in the historic district of Higashiyama, exploring traditional streets like Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka. Make a stop and explore Kyoto’s food scene by visiting the Kyoto Nishiki Market, where you can also shop for unique souvenirs and sample local delicacies. Conclude your trip with a relaxing tea ceremony experience, embracing the serene ritual that epitomizes Kyoto’s cultural heritage.

Thats a round up of our first full blown Autumn experience and travelling to Japan during Koyo . If you have more than a week , add a couple of days to discover the nearby city of Osaka and Nara, and travel further down south to explore the historic city of Hiroshima and the island of Miyajima.

It was nothing short of magical. So much so we doubt if any other Autumn will match upto this in a long long time. If you love Autumn as much as we do and have a penchant for travelling which I assume you definitely do if you are reading this blog then highly recommend adding a trip to Japan during fall season to your bucketlist. If you have any more questions drop them in comments and we would be happy to help. Have a blessed day fellas !

Ciao