After two blissful days amongst greener than green hills of Palani in Tamil Nadu & the mist of the Mountains , it was time to head to a lesser known part of the state, not much on the Tourist trail of India. As luck would have it , the delicious food and all the binge eating at Kodaikanal had already gripped my delicate stomach a night before and with multiple late night trips to the restroom, I woke up completely washed out & dehydrated. Tucked in just a Banana & a Toast from the most lavish breakfast menu I had ever come across with much sigh. But it was a wise thing to do on a long road journey that lay ahead.
With a quick lunch pit stop in the temple town of Madurai, we were all set to reach our final destination CHETTINAD. My only previous brush with it being years ago on a work trip to Chennai where I recollect a very fiery curry being served to me but that was in Chennai & this was indeed the real deal ‘ Chettinad ‘. Now inspite of being an Indian and from Rajasthan my spice tolerance levels are quite low or miserably low would be more appropriate.
The Highway was a smooth two lane dotted with coconut trees and paddy fields in far sight on either sides , and as we began approaching Karaikudi, endearing village scenes began to emerge. Traversing through beautiful lotus ponds , stark blue pollution less skies , occasional traffic, quaint villages , it was rather a quick two hours to get here from Madurai.
Driving through fields and villages in rural India is something that I enjoy. Its a trip down the memory lane where every summer holiday was customary to spend in our small Village near Nagaur. Sometimes we travelled on camel carts or open rickety jeeps but it was a celebration of family , cousins , grand parents and togetherness. Everything earthy , rustic and doted with love and loads of ghee.
Apologies for the fair bit of digression there, we reached Kanadugathan, by four-ish, Visalam CHG an erstwhile mansion gifted lovingly by a Father to his Daughter welcomed us in the most unique way. A glass of Nannari , a local root drink consumed with lemon & soda to beat the heat welcomed us along with a distinctive tradition of offering glass bangles. I was floored least to say and looking forward to learn more.
The humble staff at the property Mr Shiva ,Mr Mohan, Geeta , Valli , Vishnu, Vasantha Amma & everyone else were the highlight of our stay. Mr Shiva the experiences manager was a complete treasure trove with stories & travel tales abound , he moved back from city life to this village along with his mother after the demise of his father. His knowledge on the region was deep & profound to say the least. Later in the evening he took us around the property and on a guided Heritage Tour in the village to get glimpses of nearby mansions & life in this part of the world.
There was a sense of Harmony here, as you walk through their gorgeous courtyards filled with dappled light and shadows the Photographer in me was already doing a Happy dance.
Every corner had a story to tell , an untold saga and a glimpse of the bygone era. Carefully restored as close to the original structure, the rich heritage exuded old world charm and phenomenal character.
The Athangudi tiled floor , the intricate high ceilings dolled up with Burma Teak or the Black Marble Pillars imported from Italy back in that era are all screaming for your attention. My eyes waded through this indigenous Architectural Beauty only to pause at two familiar looking artworks high up on the ceiling. Before I enquired Mr Shiva was quick to douse that iota of doubt that these were indeed original Raja Ravi Verma Paintings. Exhilarated, this was the first time I was seeing his exquisite work outside of a Museum.
As a keen enthusiast of Design , every element here was charmingly timeless be it the Handwoven Rattan chairs , Family Portraits , Carved Mirrors, A century Old Transistor perched high on a stool , the Brass Artifacts, the Board games and even the electric fixtures like their fans.
The understated opulence is not restricted to just collectibles of venetian glass chandeliers or imported crockery collections & teak furniture , what’s impressive is how its interwoven thoughtfully with design and architecture serving the climate intrinsically. Take for example the centuries old Egg Wash lime Plaster that helps keep the scorching heat at bay. Sadly a handful of skilled masons remain who still practice this craft which uses all natural materials and doesn’t require frequent painting like other plastered walls.
A peak into Chettinad History
The origin of Chettinad begins in the 13th century when the Nattukottai Chettiars migrated to Karaikudi. They left their previous area, the Cauvery Poompattinam, following a massive flood. The new settlement eventually became the Chettinad region (Land of the Chettiars) of 96 villages (in 1947) over a 600-1500 square mile area, out of which around 75 villages still exist today. Starting as traders, the Chettiar’s travels took them to various states in South East Asia, such as Sri Lanka, Singapore, Burma, Cambodia, Vietnam and Malaysia. (The traces of which are so eminent across their Architecture)
The story of the Chettiars spans centuries, covering their growth from traders and merchants of salt, gems, textiles and jewellery to their entry into banking and finance in the 19th century. It is believed that the Nattukottai Chettiars controlled a large part of the banking economy in India for decades around the 19th century. (I had to recite this to my husband who is Banker and for a change he listened to me with a lot of attention )
Things to Do
- Take a Cycling trip or a Village walk to soak in the environment – Both are offered in-house by CHG Visalam
- Watch the Athangudi Tiles being made at a local factory
- Textiles lovers could visit a handloom unit to witness the famous Kandanghi Weave
- Visit the Antiques market in Karaikudi to find something to bring back as a memory
- Opt for a Chettinad cooking session at CGH Visalam with Vasantha Amma
- Explore more Chettinad mansions in & around the area
- Learn the art of Kolam making
- Devour Authentic Chettinad cuisine that was not as spicy as I feared it to be
Most importantly keep it relaxed and low key. This is a place to just unwind with a good read , sip some filter coffee in their beautiful backyard garden while watching the in-house Hens make a cute appearance every now & then or take a refreshing dip in the lovely pool at Visalam CHG under a clear blue sky. Languorously walk on the plush lawns barefooted.
” A place that will yearn you to slow down quite forcibly, which is such a wonderful thing for the life we lead in the big cities. Its parallel to the gentle breeze or the balmy winter sun that puts you to a sweet slumber ”
Travel Tip – If you have more time on hand I highly recommend adding a few days to cover Thanjavur & Kumbakonam, its another couple of hours from here and from what I have heard or learnt its worth visiting. I plan to do this on our next trip some other time.
Last but not the least this trip was curated by my friend Divyakshi @dquirkywanderer and I am grateful to her for introducing me to this part of our country.
Love & Light always
Kamakshi
